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Closed-end Pen Mandrels
(Patent Pending)
Please read
the
Shipping Terms & Information page regarding shipping charges
before ordering.
Closed-end Cocobolo Baron rollerball pens made and photographed by Ed Davidson
What is a closed ended pen? The
picture above illustrates two Baron rollerball pens. The
normal Baron has threads on the end of the pen to allow for the
posting of the cap when the pen is being used. The exposed
threads are necessary but not overly attractive. The
closed end design allows for the removal of the threaded portion
allowing for a more streamline and finished appearance.
The pen's cap will not post (screw on) when the closed end
design is utilized.
This mandrel makes the creation of a closed-end pen a very easy
process. Unlike 'pin' chucks, this mandrel expands to
securely support the tube. This mandrel requires the use
of a three-jawed chuck, a Jacob's chuck (see below) or a collet chuck (we do not
carry the collet chucks). |
An instructional video on how to make closed-end pens!
We sell expandable mandrels (shown below) to
make various closed-end pens. We did not have a set of
instructions to accompany these mandrels because everyone who
made this type of pen had their own way of doing them - until
now. We are please to introduce an instructional DVD produced and distributed by us and
filmed and narrated by Mr. Ed Davidson who is, in our opinion,
one of the best wood turners around. If you know anything
about Ed you know he does not 'cut corners'. He is very
precise and through.
This DVD covers the Baron/Sedona/Jr. Gentleman pens, the Jr. Gentleman
II/Jr. Statesman II pens, the El Grande/Ligero pens, the El
Presidente rollerball pen and the El Toro fountain pen.
"Closed-End Pens Design & Turning Techniques"
runs approximately two hours and will show you the turning
techniques developed by Ed to complete the very unusual pens and
pen stands shown on the cover. We also include a printed
supplement that illustrates all of the diagrams and drawings
shown in the DVD.The cost of this DVD is $10.95.
This production is available in VHS by special order for $10.95.
Click here to order the VHS tape. |
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| To order the "Closed-End Pens Design
& Turning Techniques"
DVD
Click Here |
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Special
Offer!
Purchase any 2 or more closed-end or
cap end closed-end mandrels
and
receive the Closed-End Pens DVD free!
(two mandrels must be ordered at the same time)
You will not see this DVD offer in your
order confirmation.
We will add the free DVD to your
order when your order is processed.
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Closed-end Mandrels
Baron or Sedona Rollerball and Fountain Pens
To order
the Baron / Sedona closed-end mandrel
Click Here . Cost is $19.99.
To order an extra bushing for the Baron / Sedona mandrel
Click Here . Cost is $4.29
Example of a cherry burl Baron cap end closed end pen made and photographed by Bob Altig
To make this pen you need a Baron cap end
closed-end mandrel and a Baron closed-end mandrel
To order the Baron / Sedona cap end closed-end mandrel
Click Here . Cost is $19.99.
To order an extra bushing for the Baron
/ Sedona
cap end closed-end mandrel
Click Here . Cost is $4.29
El Grande and
Churchill
Rollerball and Fountain Pens
To order the El Grande / Churchill closed-end pen mandrel
Click Here . Cost is $24.70
To order the El Grande / Churchill cap end closed-end pen mandrel
Click Here . Cost is $26.40
To order an extra bushing for the El
Grande / Churchill mandrel
Click Here . Cost is $4.29
Craft
Supplies USA Jr. Gentleman II and Jr. Statesman II Rollerball and
Fountain Pens
To order the Craft Supplies USA Jr. Gentleman II / Jr.
Retro closed-end pen mandrel
Click Here .
Cost is $21.30
To order an extra bushing for the Craft Supplies USA Jr.
Gentleman II / Jr. Retro mandrel
Click Here .
Cost is $4.29
To order the Craft Supplies USA Jr. Gentleman II
/ Jr. Retro
cap end closed-end pen mandrel
Click Here .
Cost is $22.10
To order an extra bushing for the Craft Supplies USA Jr.
Gentleman II / Jr. Retro cap end mandrel
Click Here .
Cost is $4.29
El Presidente Rollerball and El
Toro
Fountain Pens
To order the El Toro closed-end pen mandrel
Click Here .
Cost is $24.70
To order the El Toro cap end closed-end mandrel
Click Here .
Cost is $26.40
To order an extra bushing for the El Toro
mandrel
Click Here.
Cost is $4.29
El Toro Closed-End Pen
Stabilized Madrone burl and Redwood burl with custom Ebonite couplers
Crafted by Dan Symonds, Houston, Texas
The entire pen weighs sixth-tenths of an ounce!
Our trademark CNC'd into the cap
(the pen's clip is on the opposite side of the logo)
To order the El Presidente closed-end pen mandrel
Click Here .
Cost is $24.70
To
order the El Toro cap end closed-end mandrel bushing
Click Here .
Cost is $4.29
To order an extra bushing for the El Presidente
mandrel
Click Here.
Cost is $4.29
Craft
Supplies USA Gentleman and Statesman Rollerball and Fountain Pens
To order the Craft Supplies USA
Gentleman/Statesman closed-end pen mandrel
Click Here .
Cost is $22.65
To order an extra bushing for the Craft
Supplies USA Gentleman/Statesman mandrel
Click Here.
Cost is $4.29
Cigar Ballpoint
Pens
To order the Cigar closed-end pen mandrel
Click Here . Cost is $22.10
To order an extra bushing for the Cigar Closed- End mandrel
Click Here. Cost is $4.29
Spalted maple closed-end Cigar pen
made and photographed by
Robert Hoenisch
Both closed-end cigar pens made and photographed by Ed Davidson
Want to learn how to make a closed-end Cigar pen?
Click Here
7mm Cap End Closed-end pen mandrel
The bushing supplied will make a cap end closed-end 7mm European pen
To order the 7mm cap end closed-end mandrel
Click Here .
Cost is $19.99.
To order an extra bushing for the 7mm Closed- End mandrel
Click Here. Cost is $4.29
Drill Chuck
We now carry a heavy duty 1/2" drill chuck and arbor to hold the
different
closed-end mandrels. This chuck can also be used for many other
projects as well.
Click here to order the drill chuck with #2MT arbor.
Price is $36.95
Click Here to order the
drill chuck with a #1MT arbor.
Price is $36.95
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Using Arizona Silhouette's Mandrel To Make A
Closed-end Baron Pen |
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The following photo tutorial will describe
how to prepare, turn and finish a closed-end Baron rollerball
and/or fountain pen using this mandrel. In this example we'll be using Tulipwood. |
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The very cool thing about
this mandrel is the expansion nut
design. Its main feature is when the
nut is tightened the opposite end of
the mandrel expands in two directions
keeping the blank perfectly centered
relative to the mandrel. Alternatively,
common pin-chuck designs lock the blank
in place by rolling a loose pin up
against one inside surface of the
blank's brass tube, often causing an
out-of-round turning, where one side of
the finished blank's wall is thinner
than the opposite side.
To make a closed end
Baron pen, you'll need a blank that
is at least 3" long. Drill a 25/64" hole
down the center of the blank, exactly 2
7/8" deep.
And here's a special tip...the lower
barrel hole is drilled deeper than
normal so you've got clearance for
the rollerball innards, resulting in
the stock brass tube not bottoming out
in the hole. In fact, the stock brass
tube is almost an inch shorter than the
hole's required depth. The problem is
that when you go to press fit the ring
and threaded end-piece into the finished
lower barrel opening, the glue may
give way and the brass will work it's
way further down the hole, resulting in
nothing to press fit into. My solution
is to custom cut brass tubes to the
exactly length of the hole's depth. That
way the brass tube bottoms out at the
bottom of the hole and will always be in
the proper position for the press fit
operation. Here's a link to
longer 10mm brass tubes that can be
purchased if you choose to adopt this
alternative approach...gluing long tubes
in the deep hole.
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| Make sure the mandrel is all the way in,
with the bushing face flush up against
the blank's end. |
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| I'm using two box wrenches in this
example to tighten the end-nut just
enough so the blank is "locked" in
position and will not spin around the
mandrel shaft. |
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| Next, mount the mandrel's exposed shaft
in a drill or scroll chuck and tighten
the chuck's jaws down snuggly against
the mandrel shaft. |
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| Here you can see that the mandrel has
been mounted in a
# 2 MT drill chuck so that about
1/4" of clearance between the end of the
blank and the chuck is exposed...you'll
need this 1/4" space to get your cutting
tools in position for the finish cuts.
Also note that the tailstock has been
brought up to the opposite end of the
blank, adding support for the piece
while turning. |
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| The blank has been turned into a
cylinder, about 1/16" proud of the
mandrel's bushing. In this example, I've
left the blank extra long...about 4".
Note that the hole inside the blank must
be 2 7/8" deep to allow space for the
roller ball's innards. |
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| Using a sharp skew or parting tool, mark
a ring on the blank that is at least 3"
to the right of the headstock end of the
blank's end. This mark indicates where
the end of the finished pen will be and
will help calibrate the shape and design
of your finished blank. |
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| I like beads...using
a thin parting tool, make the first of
two cuts, on the left side of the
headstock end of the turning. |
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| Here you can see the first cut that has
been made at about a 45 degree angle. |
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| Now using the point of a skew or thin
parting tool, make the bead's second
(right-side) cut. |
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| Now I'll be using a 1/2" round nosed
scraper to make some decorative cove
cuts in the blank. |
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| Here I'm using a skew to make decorative
cuts in the lower barrel's end. |
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The thin parting tool is used to make a
final end cut, separating the lower
barrel form waste wood. |
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| And here, the thin parting tool is used
to clean up the end-cut. |
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While the piece is still on the lathe,
sand as you normally would. I'm sanding
with 180, 320 and 400 grit papers. |
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| After sanding, apply a coat of
Sanding Sealer with a brush or paper
towel. Be sure to wipe off the excess
sealer before it dries to avoid a clumpy
looking surface. |
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| Remove the mandrel from the chuck. |
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I'm using the mandrel's exposed shaft as
a handle, buffing the piece with
Tripoli and
White Diamond compounds, using the
Beall system. |
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Next, apply a coat of
Renaissance Wax,
wait about 30 seconds and buff the piece
out on a third clean buffing wheel. |
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| Then wait about 15 minutes, apply a
second coat of Renaissance Wax and
repeat the final buffing process. By the way, there
is just
enough time between these two Renaissance
Wax
applications to turn another pen if you
have a second mandrel. |
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This photo shows all of the hardware
included with a
Baron pen kit. The four parts shown
at the bottom of this photo will not be
used and may be discarded or saved as
spares. |
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| Put a drop or two of medium thick CA
down the center of the finished lower
barrel, then drop in the tension spring.
Let the CA dry thoroughly before going
further in the assembly process. Finally, assemble the
pen as you normally would.
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And here is the finished Rollerball
Baron made with Tulipwood.
The adjustable closed-end mandrel is
available exclusively through Arizona
Silhouette Copyright (c)
2006 Davidson LatheCraft LLC. All rights
reserved. |
Please read
the
Shipping Terms & Information page regarding shipping charges
before ordering.
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